Rawalpindi historic buildings are crumbling after decades of neglect, and the land attached to the city’s temples and gurdwaras is rapidly being lost to encroachments. None has been declared a national heritage site, though they record a time when Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims lived side by side in the city.
The old buildings tell the story of the garrison city’s past, when Hindus and Sikhs made up a dominant share of its population before partition, but little has been done to preserve them over the past 79 years.
Rawalpindi historic buildings face theft and decay
The old bridge over Leh Nullah, which linked the city and cantonment areas in the British era, is losing its wooden structure to theft, and a junkyard now sits on the bridge. Scrap dealers have removed much of the precious deodar wood from the girders of the 130-year-old truss bridge.
In the downtown bazaars, an old wooden balcony structure in Sarafa Bazaar is rapidly disappearing, while houses with balconies built more than 200 years ago still stand along the main road in Purana Qila.
Temples and gurdwaras stand unprotected
Mandir Kalyan Das, in Kohati Bazaar, is one of the largest temples in the city. It was built in 1850 by Kalyan Das, a wealthy Hindu resident of the Suri family. In Raja Bazaar, a temple opposite Narankari Bazaar was built in 1880 by Shrimati Devi in memory of her husband. Its main room is now sealed, while the rest has been rented out to traders.
Kali Mata Temple stands in Moti Bazaar. After partition, it was closed and handed over to the Evacuee Trust Property Board, as fewer Hindus were living in the city. In Purana Qila, a gate was built in 1896, when the bazaar was known as Lakhshami Narayan Bazaar, and a temple stands at the top of the hill. The old temples and the grand Gurdwara of Rai Bahadur Sujan Singh, built before partition, are among the city’s historic structures, yet they have never received much attention from the government.
Lahore has shown that restoration is possible, after the Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi reopened there this month, but no such effort has reached Rawalpindi’s sites.
Sujan Singh Haveli and the old Presidency
The 136-year-old Sujan Singh Haveli stands in the narrow streets of Bhabara Bazaar. Built by Sikh political figure Sardar Sujan Singh in 1890, the four-storey haveli is a fine example of brick masonry, with a front veranda and a central entrance. Its 45 rooms have English tiles and Kashmiri wood carvings.
The old Presidency, formerly the State Guest House on The Mall, is now Fatima Jinnah Women University, and it also needs attention. Construction began in 1898, when it was built to house the Prince of Wales on his visit to India. The visit was postponed after Queen Victoria’s death, after which Prince Edward became king.
Officials blame limited funds as plan takes shape
A senior Evacuee Trust Property Board official told Dawn that more than 1,000 buildings in the district were under the board’s control. Due to limited funds, the board could not protect them from the weather, though it had kept their records and protected them from encroachments. The status of properties already given on rent would not change, he added.
Punjab Archaeology Director General Zaheer Abbas Malik said the Punjab government had devised a plan to preserve the historical buildings in Rawalpindi city. “It is a complete heritage city plan, and we are covering temples and other historic structures,” he said.
Rawalpindi’s civic strain is not limited to heritage, as food prices in the city have also been under pressure, and the city’s courts have been dealing with a heavy caseload. In Karachi, residents in Clifton are protesting over building rules, a sign that weak enforcement is a wider problem.
What happens next
The Punjab archaeology department says its heritage city plan covers temples and other historic structures in Rawalpindi, but no timeline has been given for work to start. Until the plan moves from paper to the streets of the old city, the buildings will keep losing ground to weather, theft and encroachment.
Frequently asked questions
Which historic buildings in Rawalpindi are at risk?
Mandir Kalyan Das, Kali Mata Temple, the Gurdwara of Rai Bahadur Sujan Singh, Sujan Singh Haveli, the old Leh Nullah bridge, and the old Presidency building.
Why is land attached to temples and gurdwaras being lost?
The land is rapidly being lost to encroachments, and none of the buildings has been declared a national heritage site, so they lack formal protection.
How old are Rawalpindi’s historic buildings?
Mandir Kalyan Das dates to 1850, the Raja Bazaar temple to 1880, Sujan Singh Haveli to 1890, the Purana Qila gate to 1896, and the old Presidency to 1898. Some Purana Qila houses are more than 200 years old.
What is the Evacuee Trust Property Board’s role?
More than 1,000 buildings in the district are under its control. A senior official said limited funds had stopped the board from shielding them from weather, though it had kept their records and guarded them from encroachments.
What plan has the Punjab government announced?
Punjab Archaeology chief Zaheer Abbas Malik said the government has devised a complete heritage city plan for Rawalpindi covering temples and other historic structures, but no start date has been announced.
